First presented in 1932 with the Reference 96, the Calatrava is the benchmark for classic men’s dress watches. The groundbreaking reference set the stage for nearly every piece Patek has released since, and became the blueprint for other brand’s approaches to classy men’s timepieces. Heavily influenced by the Bauhaus design philosophy, the Calatrava was then considered extremely modern with its minimalist, less-is-more approach to watch design. 

The Calatrava 96 was also one of the first pieces the brand released after the Stern family purchased a majority share in Patek Philippe in the early 30s. In many respects, the 96 is emblematic of the Stern family’s contributions to Patek. The 96 was one of the earliest round watches Patek ever made, and was also the very first serially produced piece to receive its own reference.

In the years since 1932, Patek has released dozens of Calatrava references, each with its own idiosyncrasies. Almost all share the underlying DNA of the 96, prioritizing subtle elegance above all else. 

This piece, a Reference 5227G-001, is the very image of the elegant Calatrava design, but in a modern silhouette. With a nearly perfect 39mm 18K white gold case and its 9mm case thickness, it’s an incredibly easy-wearing watch. The case features downturned lugs, a polished bezel, a sapphire crystal, a signed crown and an officer-style caseback that when opened, reveals the maison’s Calibre 315 / 190 self-winding movement. 

Furnished with applied white gold indices, a ‘dot’ minute track, a matching dauphine handset and a framed date window at 3 o’clock set against an ivory tone, the dial is an exercise of simplistic beauty. 

Outfitted to a signed black alligator leather strap with an 18K white gold pin buckle, this piece is an exceptional example of the traditional Calatrava design and the maison’s artisanship. 

Simply put, this Calatrava is everything you need, and nothing you don’t.